The house in La Villa near Bagni di Lucca, Italy, where Montaigne had rented some rooms
When I publish this
blog, I have just returned from a holiday in Norway. Norway is one of my
favourite holiday destinations because of its beautiful landscapes and nature,
so I have been there already many times and I have visited most of the country
during the years, from Kristiansand to the North Cape. Only the eastern part of
Finnmark in the extreme northeast is waiting yet for my visit. In 2020 my wife
and I wanted to make a round trip in Sweden and Norway, to Stockholm and Oslo.
However, we had to cancel it because of the pandemic. But at last we could go to
Scandinavia again, although now we had chosen another destination: the region
between Kristiansand on the south coast and Oslo.
Like often in the summer, we made a round trip without any specific planning. We
had chosen the region, so we had booked a ferry to Kristiansand, and we had tickets
for the opera in Oslo. But this was all we had planned before we left, so we had
to look yet for places where to stay once we were there. It was a bit risky,
for most of the time we made such a round trip we had our tent with us and then
there is always a place on a camping site where you can stay. But now we had
left our tent at home. If you need a camping hut or a hotel room, it’s always
possible that they are already fully booked. In the end, it appeared not to be
a problem.
I’ll spare you the details of the trip, for this is a philosophical blog and
not a travel blog. Anyway, travelling around without a clear planning, is what
I like most. However, I would not be a philosopher, if I would not think of the
famous journey that Montaigne made in 1580 and 1581. He travelled from the
north of France to Switzerland and then via Munich and Augsburg in Germany through
Austria to Bagni di Lucca, Florence and Rome in Italy. From Rome he made also a
round trip through central Italy. Montaigne returned to France only, when the
king had ordered him to do so, because he had appointed him mayor of Bordeaux. Montaigne
did so reluctantly and he didn’t hurry to reach Bordeaux.
Montaigne kept a travel diary and so we know much about this trip. From this
diary, we get the impression that the journey was an unplanned round trip, in
the way I often make them, though the French Montaigne specialist Philippe
Desan thinks that Montaigne had a secret mission. Of course, both at the same
time is also possible. Anyway, from his diary we know that Montaigne wanted to
go to Rome and that his trip had a medical purpose as well, for he wanted to
visit medicinal springs, hoping that he would be cured of his problem of kidney
stones. So, Montaigne stayed not only several months in what he saw as the
capital of the world, but also twice in Bagni di Lucca, a known spa resort in Tuscany.
Montaigne stayed also in some other places he liked, so his journey was a bit
like my round trips, although mine are usually only very short compared with his
travel. But doesn’t everything go faster now than four centuries ago? Think of
the current means of transport: In Montaigne’s time, you could not go faster
than a horse could run. And when you travelled a long distance, you didn’t go
much faster whether you travelled by horseback or on foot. Montaigne tells us
in his dairy that, while he and his co-travellers used horses – friends and his
younger brother travelled with him during a part of the trip –, their servants walked.
Even if they had taken the shortest way to Rome, for this company the trip
would have taken, say, two weeks, while nowadays you can do it within a few hours
by air or in one or two days by car (depending on where you start in France).
What always has been an enigma for me is: How did Montaigne and his company
find their overnight accommodation? Note that Montaigne’s company consisted of some
twenty persons. When reading the diary, it never seemed to be a problem (actually
Montaigne tells us only where he stayed himself; not where the others slept). Telephone
and Internet did not yet exist, so did Montaigne reserve his accommodation by
letter? Probably not, for his journey was not well planned, so he didn’t know
when to arrive. Moreover, postal services in those days were slow, which could
make booking an inn by letter a complicated affair. Did Montaigne (who was the
leader of the company) send a servant to the next stop to reserve a place in
the local inn? But what if the inn was already fully booked? If another company
had already occupied the local inn? Maybe it was not difficult to find a place
to stay in a big town like Augsburg, but Montaigne tells us also that he stayed
in Seefeld, a little town in Austria, which had probably only one inn (Once
when I was in Seefeld, I saw there an inn that was already 500 years old. I
wonder whether Montaigne has stayed there). Maybe the inn in Seefeld had enough
free rooms, when Montaigne arrived (and maybe the servants slept in a barn or
somewhere else in Seefeld). But did it never happen that there was neither
place in the local inn nor elsewhere nearby? When your fastest means of
transport are your legs or a horse, you cannot go elsewhere to look for a place
when the night is falling. But that’s a risk, when making a round trip.
Thursday, August 10, 2023
Random quote If an image is too good to be true, it is probably constructed, they
think.
Look at the
photo. It shows a hotel room. To be exact, it’s a hotel room in Brønnøysund in
Norway. I took the photo when I was there on holiday many years ago. When on
holiday, I always take photos of the hotel rooms where I stay. I didn’t get the
idea to do so by myself but from the Belgian photographer Johan de Vos. In the
1990s, he wrote columns in the Dutch photo magazine Foto (which doesn’t
exist any longer) about hotel rooms: a photo of the room plus a description and
a comment. I liked the column and I decided to take pictures of all hotel rooms
where I would stay. So, I did. Therefore, I have photos of all hotel rooms where
I have spent the night the past 30 years. The photo
shows an average hotel room. Not really big, not really small. I have stayed in
all kinds of hotel rooms during the years; small ones and large ones; simple
ones and luxurious ones. But most of the time I stayed in hotel rooms like the
one in the photo. You find there everything you need for a short stay: a double
bed or two single beds (usually I travel with my wife); a bathroom and a toilet;
a desk with a chair; an armchair; a mirror; sometimes a small table; a
refrigerator, a TV set and sometimes a safe and a coffee maker, too. In the simplest
hotel rooms you only find a bed, while luxurious hotel rooms can have much more,
like two or more armchairs plus a bigger table; two TV sets; two rooms; two
toilets; etc. The most luxurious hotel room I ever had, had a hall and several
rooms and toilets; several TV sets and more, although I had asked only for a standard
room. Apparently, the hotel was fully booked and therefore I got this apartment,
for the price of a normal room, though not the special service that belonged to
the apartment. The simplest hotel I ever had was a road hotel: only a bed and a
little bathroom with sink and toilet and hardly any space to move. But let’s
talk about a normal, average room like the one in the photo; just comfortable
enough to stay there one, two, or maybe three nights but not much longer. Hotel rooms
may differ slightly from country to country, but generally they are everywhere
the same. Some differences may exist, however. Hotel rooms in warmer countries
often have stone floors and no carpets on the floor. The wall decorations and
colours used may show regional influences or have regional pictures. However, especially
in the bigger cities hotel rooms are the same all over the world, and often
when you see only a picture of the room, you don’t know in which country it is;
whether it’s a hotel room in Tokyo, New York or Amsterdam. You find differences
mainly between hotel rooms in the countryside and in smaller towns. They may
have a local look. But the differences are usually in the details. A hotel
room is a kind of passage. Hardly anybody stays there for a longer time. You
come, stay there for a while and go. You take a hotel room only because you need
or want to do something in or near the place. It is a temporary residence.
Before you come there, another person or couple used the room; when you leave,
others will take your place. You don’t know these people and you are also not
interested to know them. Just these characteristics make hotel rooms interesting
from a philosophical and sociological point of view. They tell us something
about a special category of people: travellers. They tell us what they need for
a stay. Therefore, it would be interesting to compare contemporary hotel rooms with
hotel rooms in the past and look what has changed. Of course, the TV set has
been added in the course of the years, and the refrigerator as well; but what
more? Moreover, there are categories of travellers. In the past, travellers
were mainly businessmen, merchants and rich people with time and money to make
a trip and to go on holiday. When other people travelled, they usually stayed
with family, friends and acquaintances, or they didn’t go, and even the just
mentioned categories often stayed with people they knew. It would also be
interesting to compare hotel rooms for categories of people, and to see what is
added to a hotel room if it is more expensive. Or to study regional differences,
insofar they exist. It would tell us much about people on the way. For aren’t hotel
rooms kind of pictorial descriptions of them?
Thursday, August 03, 2023
Random quote The photographic “shock” … consists less in traumatizing than in revealing
what was so well hidden that the actor himself was unaware or unconscious of
it.